Basic Introduction to OCT Raw Material
OCT, with INCI Name: Piroctone Olamine, CAS No.: 68890-66-4, industry abbreviation OCT/Octopirox, is a 1:1 complex salt formed by piroctone and ethanolamine. It appears as white to light yellow crystalline powder with a faint characteristic odor.
Core Physicochemical Properties
Solubility: Slightly soluble in pure water, easily soluble in ethanol and polyols, and has excellent solubility in surfactant systems and alcohol-water mixed systems. It can be used to formulate transparent hair care products, which is a major advantage compared with ZPT (Zinc Pyrithione).
pH Stability: Stable in the pH range of 3-9, with the optimal formulation pH of 5.0-8.0, which is compatible with most daily chemical systems such as shampoos and conditioners.
Good Thermal Stability and Light-Protected Storage: It maintains good stability under high-temperature production processes, but direct ultraviolet radiation will cause decomposition of active components. Both raw materials and finished products need to be stored away from light.
Anti-Dandruff Mechanism
An important cause of dandruff is the over-proliferation of Malassezia on the scalp. Fungal metabolism produces fatty acids and peroxides, which stimulate the abnormal proliferation of scalp keratinocytes and accelerate their shedding, leading to dandruff and itching. OCT mainly inhibits the mitochondrial respiratory chain of fungi, interferes with the energy metabolism of Malassezia and suppresses fungal reproduction. At the same time, it has certain antioxidant capacity, reducing the irritation of peroxides to the scalp. It improves dandruff and scalp itching in two ways, rather than temporarily masking dandruff problems through strong degreasing.
Compared with the previously widely used ZPT, OCT has outstanding advantages: it has extremely strong compounding properties, is compatible with a variety of cationic surfactants, and will not cause precipitation and delamination; its irritation is much lower than traditional anti-dandruff agents, and will not cause scalp sensitivity, hair loss or hair breakage; it also has a unique thickening property, which can reduce the amount of thickener added at a specific concentration and simplify the production process of hair care products.
Application Fields
OCT has broad-spectrum bacteriostasis and low irritation, covering a variety of personal care products including rinse-off and leave-on types.
Rinse-off Hair Care Products: It can be found in various anti-dandruff shampoos, scalp cleansing scrubs and body washes, relying on its efficient bacteriostasis to achieve anti-dandruff, itching-relieving and deodorizing effects.
Leave-on Hair Care Products: It is one of the few anti-dandruff ingredients allowed to be used in leave-on hair products. When added to hair conditioners, hair oils, hair styling gels and hair dye products, it can continuously exert its effect in scenarios where it stays on the scalp for a long time without causing additional irritation.
Efficacy Skincare Products: It is also added in some anti-acne gels, oil-control toners and scalp serums, using its broad-spectrum bacteriostasis properties to improve problems such as oily and acne-prone scalp, and fungal acne on the back and chest.
Special Care Products: In care ointments for tinea manuum and pedis, and pet hair care products, OCT has become a preferred choice for many formulators due to its excellent inhibitory effect on fungi and molds.
Compound Development: It is often compounded with salicylic acid, zinc pyrithione, climbazole, etc. to achieve synergistic efficacy; it is compatible with various formulation systems such as transparent shampoo and pearlescent shampoo.
⚠️ Note: This article is a popular science introduction to cosmetic raw materials. Raw materials are not equivalent to drugs and are not used for disease treatment. For skin problems such as seborrheic dermatitis, please follow the doctor's advice.
Recommended Dosage in Formulations
The following are general industry formulation references. The final addition amount needs to be determined in combination with the target efficacy, regulatory limits and small-scale test results. Cosmetics must comply with the requirements of the Technical Specification for Cosmetic Safety in China.
Product Type | Recommended Dosage (Mass Fraction) | Description |
|---|---|---|
Anti-dandruff Shampoo (Rinse-off) | 0.3% - 1.0% | The common concentration range in commercial finished products is 0.4% - 0.75%, and the higher limit is suitable for severe dandruff conditions |
Hair Conditioner, Hair Mask | 0.1% - 0.3% | For rinse-off hair care products |
Scalp Nourishing Liquid, Scalp Serum (Leave-on) | 0.05% - 0.1% | Strictly control the upper limit for leave-on products to avoid irritation risks |
Styling Products, Hair Cream (Leave-on) | 0.05% - 0.2% | For hair sprays, gels and leave-on hair creams |
Body Wash, Body Care Products | 0.2% - 0.5% | For body bacteriostasis and itching relief purposes |
Key Practical Notes for Formulation
Dissolution Process: The raw material powder is hardly soluble in water. It is recommended to pre-dissolve it with ethanol/polyols such as propylene glycol first, then add it to the surfactant system and stir for dispersion. Do not directly pour it into the pure water phase, as precipitation may easily occur.
pH Control: Maintain the system at pH 5-8, avoid strong acids and strong alkalis to ensure active stability.
Light-Protected Storage: Finished product packaging is recommended to be light-proof; raw materials should be stored in a cool and dark place to prevent photodegradation and activity loss.
Compatibility Tips: Avoid high-concentration strong oxidants as much as possible. The addition of OCT will have a thickening effect on the formulation, so reserved space should be considered when adjusting the viscosity.
Preliminary Small-Scale Test: Before formal production, it is necessary to conduct small-scale tests on stability and compatibility to check for precipitation and discoloration under low-temperature, high-temperature and cyclic conditions.
Summary
According to relevant Chinese cosmetic regulations, OCT is classified as a quasi-preservative, with a maximum allowable use concentration of 1.0% in rinse-off products. Its biggest highlight is the balance between anti-dandruff efficacy and mildness, which can be applied to both rinse-off and leave-on formulations with strong compounding compatibility, making it a highly valuable active raw material in the scalp care track. During formulation development, risk substances such as nitrosamines must be evaluated synchronously to ensure that the products meet regulatory requirements.