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Carnosine — A Dual-Action Anti-Glycation & Antioxidant Skincare Active Ingredient

Summary
Carnosine (β-alanyl-L-histidine) is a naturally occurring dipeptide abundantly found in mammalian skeletal muscle, cardiac muscle and brain tissue. As a multi-functional active with antioxidant, anti-glycation, carbonyl scavenging and metal ion chelating properties, carnosine has gained growing applications in anti-aging, anti-glycation, skin repair and sun care cosmetic formulations. Starting from the fundamental physicochemical properties of carnosine, this paper systematically reviews its mechanism of action, application fields in cosmetics, recommended formulation dosage and key practical notes, to provide references for formulation R&D of cosmetic manufacturers.
Carnosine — A Dual-Action Anti-Glycation & Antioxidant Skincare Active Ingredient

Basic Introduction and Physicochemical Properties

Physicochemical Properties

Item

Content

Chinese Name

肌肽

English Name

Carnosine

Chemical Name

β-alanyl-L-histidine

INCI Name

Carnosine

CAS No.

305-84-0

Molecular Formula

C₉H₁₄N₄O₃

Molecular Weight

226.23 g/mol

Appearance

White to off-white crystalline powder

Solubility

Freely soluble in water, sparingly soluble in ethanol, insoluble in organic solvents such as ether and acetone

Our company produces high-purity carnosine raw material via biosynthetic process, which is safe and compatible with various skincare formulations.

Solubility

Carnosine is freely soluble in water, sparingly soluble in ethanol and insoluble in oils. It is suitable for water-based cosmetic formulations such as serums, toners and gels. No special solubilizer is required; it dissolves and disperses rapidly without compromising formulation clarity and texture.

Stability

Carnosine is relatively stable in solid state. Aqueous solutions may undergo hydrolysis or degradation during long-term storage, so formulation pH and preservation system should be carefully controlled.

Safety

Carnosine is non-toxic, non-irritating and non-phototoxic, with no contraindicated user groups. It complies with domestic and international safety specifications for cosmetic raw materials.

Mechanism of Action of Carnosine

1. Anti-glycation to inhibit collagen aging

Skin glycation is a primary cause of dull complexion, collagen laxity and fine lines. Glycation refers to the non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars (e.g. glucose, fructose) and amino groups in proteins, ultimately forming advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs lead to collagen cross-linking, reduced skin elasticity, wrinkle formation and sallow skin tone. As a potent carbonyl scavenger, carnosine preferentially binds reactive sugar fragments (glyoxal, methylglyoxal) and replaces collagen to participate in glycation reactions. It inhibits AGEs generation at the source and partially degrades pre-formed glycation products, reversing glycation-induced dullness and refining skin texture.

2. Antioxidation to scavenge free radical damage

External stressors including UV irradiation, environmental pollution and sleep deprivation trigger massive reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin. ROS damage cell membranes and skin cells, resulting in dryness, roughness and fine lines. Carnosine directly eliminates excess ROS and lipid peroxidation products in skin, blocks the chain reaction of lipid peroxidation, mitigates oxidative stress damage, improves endogenous antioxidant capacity of skin, defends against external environmental insults and delays oxidative skin aging.

3. Metal ion chelation to reduce skin damage

Transition metal ions such as copper and iron in skin catalyze free radical generation and glycation reactions, accelerating skin aging. With excellent metal chelating capacity, carnosine precisely complexes free metal ions in skin and terminates catalytic reactions of oxidation and glycation. This further enhances anti-aging and repairing effects, alleviates metal-induced skin sensitivity and redness, and improves formulation mildness.

Application Fields, Recommended Dosage & Key Practical Notes for Formulation

1. Core Application Fields

Thanks to its water solubility, good stability, multi-functionality and high compatibility, carnosine is widely used in various skincare cosmetics:

Application Field

Function

Common Product Types

Anti-aging

Antioxidation, anti-glycation, collagen protection

Serums, creams, eye creams

Anti-glycation

Inhibit AGEs formation, improve sallow complexion

Anti-glycation serums, facial masks

Repair & soothing

Promote skin barrier repair

Repair creams, sensitive skin care products

UV protection adjuvant

Antioxidation, reduce UV-induced free radical damage

Sunscreens, after-sun repair products

Scalp care

Antioxidant repair, optimize scalp condition

Shampoos, scalp serums

Oral care

Anti-inflammation, antibacterial activity, halitosis inhibition

Toothpaste, mouthwash

2. Recommended Dosage

Combined with domestic cosmetic safety regulations and industrial mass production formulation experience, the effective dosage of carnosine is recommended as follows:

  • Routine basic dosage: 0.1%–1.0%, suitable for daily moisturizing, brightening and basic anti-aging products. It works gently and fits all skin types.

  • High-efficacy enhanced dosage: 1.0%–2.0%, for mature skin products targeting severe glycation dullness with prominent anti-aging performance.

There is no statutory maximum dosage limit for carnosine in cosmetics. The general safe range for all product categories is 0.01%–2.0%. The actual dosage shall be adjusted according to formulation system, target efficacy, regulatory requirements and stability test results.

Formulation suggestion: For new product development, priority is given to lab trials at 0.5%–1.0% to balance efficacy, stability and production cost for optimal mass production adaptability.

3. Key Practical Notes for Formulation

To guarantee formulation stability, active retention rate and mass production pass rate of carnosine, cosmetic manufacturers shall follow the key operation points below:

  • Temperature control: Carnosine is relatively heat-sensitive. It is recommended to add at low temperature (<40 ℃) in the later stage of formulation and avoid prolonged high-temperature treatment.

  • pH control: Addition in strongly acidic or strongly alkaline systems is prohibited. Extreme pH conditions will destroy the molecular structure of carnosine and cause activity loss.

  • Metal ion compatibility: Carnosine has chelating capacity and may interact with metal ions (Fe, Cu, Zn) in formulations, affecting color and stability. Direct co-formulation with high-concentration metal-containing actives such as copper tripeptide should be avoided, or compatibility tests shall be performed.

  • Compatibility with other actives: It can be compounded with most active ingredients including hyaluronic acid, panthenol, niacinamide, vitamin B5, peptides and asiaticoside to achieve synergistic anti-aging, brightening and repairing effects. Direct blending with high-concentration strong oxidizing raw materials is not recommended to prevent antagonism.

  • System compatibility: As a water-soluble ingredient, it is added directly to aqueous phase. For oil-containing formulations, an emulsifying system is required for uniform dispersion. Do not add directly into oil phase to prevent uneven dispersion, precipitation and phase separation.

  • Storage requirement: Powder raw material should be hermetically stored away from light under dry and ambient temperature to prevent moisture and caking. Once opened, use promptly to avoid long-term moisture exposure and oxidation.

Quality Standard of Carnosine Raw Material

Our cosmetic-grade carnosine is manufactured in accordance with general industrial standards for cosmetic raw materials, with well-defined core quality control indicators and stable parameters to meet mass production requirements of high-end skincare products.

Item

Specification

Item

Specification

Appearance

White or off-white powder

Specific Rotation

+20.0°~+22.0°

Purity

≥99.0%

pH

7.9–8.3

β-Alanine

≤0.1%

Melting Point

250–260 ℃

L-Histidine

≤1.0%

Heavy Metals

<10 ppm

Loss on Drying

≤1.00%

Total Aerobic Count

<100 cfu/g

Residue on Ignition

≤0.10%

Molds & Yeasts

<100 cfu/g

All batches of carnosine supplied by our company undergo strict quality inspection with stable batch-to-batch performance, qualified purity and controllable impurities, perfectly adaptable to mass production of various cosmetic formulations.

Conclusion

As a classic multi-functional anti-aging active peptide in cosmetic industry, carnosine delivers four core benefits: anti-glycation, antioxidation, metal chelation and barrier repair. It precisely addresses four major skin problems: oxidative aging, glycation dullness, collagen laxity, and outperforms single-function raw materials with multi-dimensional skincare advantages. Meanwhile, it features stable physicochemical properties, good water solubility, high compatibility, mild safety, high adaptability for mass production, simple feeding process and controllable cost. It can be widely applied in various anti-aging, brightening and repairing skincare products.

For cosmetic manufacturers, carnosine is a cost-effective core active raw material. It can be used as a basic active to upgrade conventional skincare formulations, or as the key ingredient to develop premium dedicated anti-aging products, compatible with full product categories and all skin types. It is a preferred raw material for formulation upgrading and efficacy iteration in the cosmetic industry.

Product link:Carnosine

References

[1] 化妆品原料安全技术规范(2022年版)

[2] Quinn, P. J., Boldyrev, A. A., & Formazuyk, V. E. (1992). Carnosine, a protective, anti-ageing peptide? International Journal of Biochemistry, 24(6), 843–848.

[3] 天然活性多肽在化妆品中的应用研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业, 2024.

[4] Aldini, G., Facino, R. M., Beretta, G., & Carini, M. (2005). Carnosine and related dipeptides as quenchers of reactive carbonyl species. BioFactors, 24(1–4), 77–87.

[5] 国家药品监督管理局. 《已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)》.

Xi'an Wanlv Biotechnology Co., Ltd.